The effect of wave height and period to the shoreline change that opposite with breakwater gap

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A. Saputra, M. Bisri, Sumiadi, D. Sisinggih, H. Ajiwibowo

2026 IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science Vol. 1593 Issue 1 Conference paper Cited by 0

Abstract

This research intends to investigate the dominant parameters that influence the shoreline change which opposite with breakwater gap. However, this research is conducted in Penyak Coast-Bangka Island-Indonesia. Based on the previous researches, there have been empirical methods that are used for analyzing the coast responses due to the breakwater in fulfilling the erosion and sedimentation on the coastal area. However, there have not been any researches that analyze the effect of wave Height and period that opposite with the breakwater gap. The methodology consists of 3-dimensions physical modeling by using the equivalence principal and common method that accordance with the book of "Physical Models and Laboratory Techniques in Coastal Engineering."In the modeling, there is used the method of movable bed model that is physical modeling by including sandy sediment as the modeling base. The wave height and wave period are the dominant parameters that determine the intensity of wave energy that reaches the shoreline. This research gives a more detail proof and describes the phenomenon of double-lobe accretion that is only indicated through the numerical simulation before. The result is hoped can support the effective distance formulation between breakwaters. © 2026 Published under licence by IOP Publishing Ltd.

Affiliations

Department of Water Resources, Faculty of Engineering, Universitas Brawijaya, Malang, Indonesia; Water Resources Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering, Universitas Brawijaya, Malang, Indonesia; Department of Marine Engineering, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Bandung Technology Institute, Indonesia